Heritage Trading Company
Close-Up Showing Both Front Side & Hand-Cut Reverse
Side of Shawl
As late as the 19th century, jamavar shawls from India were hand
woven using a twill tapestry weave with interlocking weft threads. The bobbins
holding these threads were called kanis, and the shawls themselves were
sometimes known as kani shawls. The hand weaving of that type of intricately
designed, jamavar shawl is no longer commercially viable, since one shawl would
take a craftsman months, or even years, to complete. (Even with favorable
international currency exchange rates, such pieces would cost thousands of
dollars.) Jamavar shawls today are made on automated, jacquard looms.
Nevertheless, today’s shawl makers are developing techniques to more closely
replicate the intricate, crisply defined motifs of the original kani jamavar
shawls. One of the newest of these techniques has produced what have, somewhat
confusingly, come to be known—and marketed—as kani shawls.
These modern kani jamavar shawls are woven on automated jacquard looms but are
significantly different from the better known jacquard jamavar shawls. In
general, the kani shawls’ motifs are more crisply defined, and a kani shawl will
usually incorporate a larger number of colors than a jacquard jamavar. In order
to do this, the weft threads on a kani shawl are carried along as floats on the
back side of the shawl and are only woven in when their colors are required.
When the weaving is finished, the float threads are cut away by hand. This hand
cutting is a time consuming process and accounts for a substantial portion of a
Shawl Makers Cutting the Floats from
Because of the way they are woven, kani shawls are not reversible.
Kani shawls vary in price, depending on the number of colors used and the
detailing of their motifs. Shawls with the most dense, intricate, and crisply defined
motifs are more costly. The shawls we sell are described as Kani Diamond (the
most expensive), Kani Gold, and Kani Silver (the least costly). All of our kani
shawls are made of 100% new, Merino wool.
information about India shawls, please see the Definitions and Comments
at the end of our listing.
A kani jamawar
shawl from India. The intricate,
woven, pattern is inspired by designs that date back to the Mughal Empire.
Black, Shades of Red, Royal Blue, Light Taupe, Shades of Tan, Spring
78 Inches Long By 27 Inches Wide
200 Centimeters Long By 70 Centimeters Wide
This shawl is brand new, not "vintage." In other
words, it's not used, damaged, or dirty.
This item is shipped from India. Please allow 2 weeks for delivery.
Please see our
feedback for comments like these on our jamavar shawls:
MUSEUM QUALITY (AS IN EXHIBIT, NOT GIFT SHOP) - I'M A REPEAT
Every time I open your packages, I exclaim, "Oh WOW!" Every
item is stunning!
BEST PASHMINA JAMAVAR ON NET!!! I LOVE THIS COMPANY, CUSTOMER
Tout est parfait avec envoi express : merci
Praise : Best eBay experience to
date, great seller. Guaranteed repeat customer here.
Praise : Wunderschöner Schal,
spannendes Muster, tolle Qualität. Gerne mal wieder
Another treasure, just delighted, perfect gift for the
Amazingly beautiful shawl very reasonably priced. A+A+A+A+A+
What a beautiful shawl! I gave it as a gift and my friend
loved it! Excellent!
Perfect, Absolutely Gorgeous and Divine! Will buy again,
May-14-11 Praise :
Love these shawls! Fast shipping! And I can shop in New York! Thank
Stunning, so pleased! You won't be disappointed shopping
Dec-29-11 Praise :
Lovely shawl, will wear it for ages! And friendly patient service!
Jan-13-12 Praise :
Excellent Ebay seller for jamawars. Best on NET!!*****
Praise : Truly
stunning and exquisiteness at its best :))
Praise : Every
one I get is so beautiful. I just love your work. Exactly as pictured
Praise : Fabulous
/Happy Buyer/Five Star Seller*****
International Buyers - Please
Import duties, taxes, and
charges are not included in the item price or shipping cost.
These charges are the buyer's responsibility.
Please check with your
country's customs office to determine what these additional costs will be
prior to bidding or buying.
Customs activity may delay the
arrival of your package. In our experience, this is infrequent, but it
does sometimes happen. Thanks for your patience.
POUR NOS AMIS QUI PARLENT
FRANÇAIS (For our
Châle ou écharpe en laine. Nouveau. Fabriqué en Inde. (Méthodes de
paiement: Nous acceptons les cartes de crédit sur Paypal et les chèques
personnels en U.S. dollars.)
Made of sari
fabric. It's easy, beautiful, and reusable. For any Heritage
here for details.
Truth In Advertising: Some
Definitions & Some Comments About India Shawls
FIRST, THE DEFINITIONS
(Also spelled jamawar,
The jamavar technique of weaving
intricate, Persian-inspired motifs was brought to the Kashmir region of India in
the 15th Century under the patronage of one of the kingdom's most
admired rulers, Zain-ul-Abdin. Patterns in these early jamavars were created by
using weft threads of various colors that did not run the full width of the
fabric. Rather, they were woven back and forth in small areas to create the
desired, tiny color blocks. These jamavars became fashionable with European
aristocracy in the 18th Century. Because of the costly weaving
technique, the patterns often covered just the edges and ends of the shawls.
Even so, only the wealthiest people could afford them. The invention of
the jacquard loom in the 19th Century meant that shawls with the
traditional jamavar designs could be produced cost-effectively for a much larger
market. And the motifs began to cover larger portions of the shawls.
Madame Riviere, 1805, By Ingre
Countess Daru, 1810, By David
Early 19th Century
Portraits Of European
Ladies Wearing Jamavar Shawls
Today the term “jamavar” usually
refers to shawls with intricately woven, Persian/Mughal-inspired patterns. (It
rarely refers to the original weaving technique.) Some modern jamavars simulate
earlier weaving traditions by using supplemental warp and/or weft threads, which
extend across only a portion of the fabric, to create complex, multicolored
designs on some areas of the shawl, while leaving large, solid color blocks in
(In accordance with Ebay rules, we can't spell out this word,
lest our auction appear in a search for articles made of that material.
But we think you'll figure out our message anyway.)
NOT a generic term for any shawl
from India, “p*shmina” refers to a very specific and very costly
material. "Pashm*na" is the inner coat wool of a particular Himalayan
goat (Capra hircus). Articles made from "p*shmina" are very expensive,
even when purchased in India directly from a manufacturer’s agent. Less
expensive are blends of "p*shmina" with other materials such as wool or
In our experience, it is not
possible to make a wholesale purchase of 80 inch by 28 inch, jamavar, 70% "p*shmina"
blend shawls from a manufacturer’s agent in India for less than $50 (US
currency) apiece. It is also not possible to circumvent the agents and buy
directly from the manufacturers—we tried.
Also NOT a generic name for shawls
from India, “c*shmere” is another name for "p*shmina". Some
people prefer to use the term “cashm*re” to refer to the larger diameter
fibers (15-19 microns) and reserve the term “pashm*na” for the finer
grade (11-14 microns).
A region of Northwest India.
Not "c*shmere" fabric.
The adjective meaning that
something is “of Kashmir.” It can mean any shawl from Kashmir or designed in
the tradition of Kashmir. It does not mean "c*shmere" material. The
term is often used to refer to certain types of embroidery. In one popular type
of Kashmiri hand-embroidery, the pattern is made from many tiny, straight
stitches. Chain stitch is another traditional style. (Heritage
Trading sells some shawls with Kashmiri embroidery.)
Because of Kashmir’s current political instability, much Kashmiri embroidery is
now done outside that state.
Viscose is the word much of the world uses to refer to what Americans call
rayon. Read the fine print on shawl auctions. Some shawls described
as "pashm*na" in the title are revealed to be 100% viscose in the
small-font part of the description.
COMMENTS: TRUTH IN ADVERTISING
India does not have the strict
truth-in-advertising laws that are found in the United States and elsewhere.
Consequently, some Indian manufacturers will label their shawls as "p*shmina"
or "c*shmere," even though they are, in reality, sheep’s wool or even
synthetic. In fact, we told our Indian supplier to remove the labels sewn into
a recent shipment of woolen shawls, inaccurately describing them as "pashm*na".
At Heritage Trading, we try to be clear and
accurate in our ebay descriptions. We do not, at present, sell "p*shmina"
or "cashm*re" shawls. We DO sell beautiful shawls with jamavar (i.e.,
intricately woven patterns) made of sheep’s wool. We also sell some wool-like,
synthetic shawls, which are clearly described as synthetic in our listings. And
we sell some blended fabrics, which are also fully described.
We encourage similar clarity and accuracy
from all sellers.
Thanks for reading this. We
wanted you to know.