Tyberos the Red Wake, Assault Terminator, pro-painted, Warhammer40k
This is my masterpiece. I created it for the Crystal Brush Tournament in Chicago this year, and it didn't have a fancy base/plinth, so it was ignored. (I'm a wargamer, and it was my first contest. I kept the base simple because I intended to sell it after. If I enter again, I'll attach the obligatory wooden block to my bases.) So, what that means to you is that you're about to buy the best ever painted miniature I've ever painted. It was painted over a period of a week (several hours a day), and with touch ups after assembly. Much of the detail is freehand - that is, not following mold/model lines and I'm very proud that they turned out straight and even. It was especially challenging was painting straight lines over the bumpy armor. The codex colors for this model are extremely boring, and I wanted to do something to bring out the 'space shark' inside of this model. All the colors are marine/sea colors, excepting the metallics, and I did my best to bring out EVERY armor plate. The eyes, and every bump is higlighted. There is no ink on the entire model, except on the trophy skulls - which means that all of the colors and lines are sharp. Every good space marine should keep his armor spotless, and I attempt to follow that, down to his steel toed boots. All of the blades on the lighting claw/chain fist are adamantium tipped, and every rivet, even those holding on the metal flashing, are individually painted. The model is based on a real rock, as to give the otherwise light resin model a little weight to keep it from sliding or tipping over. I even used real, unstained, bleached lambskin for his apron. Well, maybe not. I never understood why some space marines have aprons...
I'd be happy to paint the rock, and or base the model to match your army, or leave it as is for you to rebase as you please. I have a few colored sands/flocks, and static grass, along with little rocks to replace the big rock if you like. Just give me a day or two to base from the time of order.
And of course, I'd be happy to answer any questions you have. It is an exemplary, and unique model - ideal for an army commander, and painted in colors that could match a variety of loyalist chapters.
BASING: As are most of my models, the base has been deliberately left unfinished. This is to provide the buyer with the option to provide a base that matches his army. If the buyer so chooses, I will simply base it for him matching the colors of his choosing before I ship it to him free of charge (this includes flock). If the buyer wants a fancy base, like the figure standing on a rock, he will have to allow for additional time for me to find an appropriate rock.
A note on quality:
COLOR!!! To steal a previous employer's slogan: Color makes the difference! In the first decade of playing 40k, I met a guy named Chris whose paint jobs were the envy of everyone in Oak Park, IL. I purchased a couple of his armies, and studied his work. His work was not perfect, BUT, every unit he had looked fantastic on the tabletop - why? Because he knew how to bring out colors to bring continuity to his units. He was consistant in his painting, his colors were bright and sharp, and by adding to some of the units I had bought from him to update them for later editions of the game, I learned his techniques. I was an awful art student in high school, BUT, I learned the color wheel inside and out. I pay very close attention to my freehand and improvised work to my colors as to keep them matched and to bring out every little detail I can, which reminds me...
DETAIL: I am a fanatic about detail. I feel as if I'm honoring the sculpter when I paint a model and find a way to expose every little detail he or she put into it. If I see the model is missing a tooth, I don't give him one! If I can give a blood drop a little reflection, I will. If they have a service stud in their forhead, it doesn't turn into a mole! That's why more detailed models are priced higher than less as well. The more detail I add, and I often have to put at least two coats even on the smallest detail, the longer it takes, the more I charge.
Layers: I learned my brush techniques as a housepainter. (Believe it or not, it's not the size of the brush that matters.) You cannot paint anything perfectly, but you can create the illusion of perfection. That doesn't keep me from painting as perfectly as possible, but sometimes the illusion of a perfect paint job is far more appealing than perfection, especially if the model itself is not perfect! The closer you look at a model, the more imperfections you find, and a good painter will turn them to his/her advantage.
I do not mass-produce figures. They are all unique and all have AT LEAST 2 coats of paint on them, not including basecoats. I avoid brush marks by putting on as many coats as necessary to obliterate them. I do not speed-paint.
All metal models are sealed before photos are taken. Glue marks on the model are non-existant unless noted. All flash is cleaned off before priming or when discovered, and gaps are filled while building or painting.
I pride myself on solid colors, and I very rarely, if ever use inks. I avoid drybrushing as well. I feel a model must look good close up and on the table, as these are after all gamepieces. It is my point of view that - typically - drybrushing and the use of inks is a sign of laziness or carelessness. I'll use inks on skin sometimes to get the right effect, and drybrush non-figure objects, like junk on bases.
"If you hold it out at arms length and squint, it kinda looks like a space marine!" - a guy who didn’t want to be identified at the Chicago Battle Bunker for fear of losing his credibility.
2nd place at Sidetrack Nick's 3rd Bi-annual Basement Gamer Painter Competition. (I was the only one that entered, but I won second, so take that haters!~)
Shipping via USPS 1st Class Mail is included in the buy-it-now price.
International shipping to Canada, Europe, Australia, New Zealand: Shipping and handling charges for USPS First Class Mail are included in the item price for USA addresses. Add US$3 for Canada, or US$12 for Europe and Australia, if offered to those countries. Items in the same category or of similar dimensions may be combined for savings on shipping costs, provided all items are purchased on the same date. Any such shipping discounts will be enclosed with the item, and should not be deducted from your payment.. Payment must be via PayPal and should be completed within 48 hours of the purchase date and time. Basically we do not accept returns but will consider allowing a return under highly extraordinary circumstances and at our discretion. Otherwise all prices are firm (except auction items) and all sales are final.