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Reviews (1)
Jun 14, 2017
A8 Experiences
I own three of these so I guess they are doing something right! Actually, I highly recommend this DIY kit for a few reasons.
1) Purchasing a ready made one for a lot more money does not show you how to repair and maintain them. No matter what you pay for the high end ones, they break or need adjustment just as often so learning how they work and what to do when they go down is crucial.
2) The workmanship and quality of the machine parts is very good. Everything works right out of the box, but there are a few important issues the company could resolve, but all in all, worth every penny.
3) The videos on YouTube are very clear and there is no reason you cannot get yours up and running in a day or less.
Here is where they can improve without adding too much to the cost.
a) The method used for connecting the acrylic is great but the hardware they send is not adequate to the task. To get your A8 as solid as possible you need to use Square Nuts, Flat Washers and Lock Washers. The square nut will not move in 6 directions like the hex nut will, and a lock washer up against a flat washer will solve once and for all the bad name acrylic frames get for movement. Get some square nuts, flat and lock washers before assembly. You will be very glad you did.
b) The heat bed connector is not adequate for the amount of amperage so sooner or later you will get a "Printer Halted" or "Thermal Runaway" error. All you have to do is disconnect the heat bed and look at the connector to see why. The black lead connector will be burnt. To solve this problem, solder the wires directly to the heat bed, but then get a Mosfet Heatbed Circuit to better manage the amperage problem to reduce the chance of fire. They cost less than $10 and it is a necessary addition. Lots of talk about this on any number of internet sites out there.
On the Improvement front, if you want VERY high quality prints, this is the printer for you. There is nothing wrong with this printers printing capability, however, there are things you can do to make it professional quality. They are:
1) Remove the masking tape from the heat bed, purchase a 220x220x3mm piece of Boroscillic Glass (do not use window glass for safety reasons), then purchase a .8mm piece of PEI that is 220x220mm. The PEI has special properties that allow the plastic to stick perfectly every time. The added $40 for the glass and PEI is money well spent.d
2) Leveling the heat bed can drive anyone crazy. You are dealing with a .4mm nozzle that has to be 1/2 of that distance to the bed on the first round. You are amazing if you can get your bed (the whole thing) .2mm from the nozzle everywhere. To solve this problem, get a Capacitive Bed Level Sensor. Capacitive is the only style that works perfectly through glass. This means the factory recommended sensor will not work if you go to glass. Thinking ahead and getting the right sensor will save you money in the long run. Another $40 for the Sensor and the Buck Converter needed to operate the sensor at 6-36v. The factory also needs to add software capability to run these sensors if they do not want their customers moving to another software platform.
All in all, I am very impressed with the workmanship and the cost of these printers. I highly recommend them with the above changes and I am hoping the factory is paying attention because adding those square nuts and washers are something that would save everyone a lot of headache in printing extra printer supports available on the Maker sites. There is no need for any of that if fastened correctly in the first place.